Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends. Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on the surface giving a raised effect. The design is often in two colours and rose. The name was derived from original fabric, which was woven with a small-interlaced design of chain armour and used for military equipment during the Cru-at sades.